Still surfing in the face of cancer
By Catherine E. Toth
Advertiser Urban Honolulu Writer
At first Jeannie Chesser joked about it, an egg-sized lump right below her bikini line on her left leg.
She called it her left testicle.
But when she went to visit her doctor about it in May, a biopsy revealed something a lot less humorous.
Chesser, a longtime surfer and artist, was diagnosed with Merkel cell carcinoma, a rare and aggressive type of skin cancer that forms on or just under the skin.
About 1,200 new cases of MCC are diagnosed each year in the United States, according to the National Cancer Institute, compared with almost 60,000 new cases of melanoma and more than 1 million new cases of non-melanoma skin cancer.
Chesser, 58, underwent surgery to remove the cancerous lump in July and is undergoing chemotherapy treatments.
And with medical bills piling up — one trip to the pharmacy cost her nearly $2,000 — her friends decided to organize a fundraiser on Sept. 20 to help with the costs.
The event will include live entertainment, door prizes and a silent auction featuring new surfboards, custom skate decks and personal boards from the quivers of pro surfers Kelly Slater, Andy Irons, Bonga Perkins and others.
Chesser, who can't work as an artist and surfboard airbrusher while she's going through treatments, called the outpouring of support "overwhelming."
This is not Chesser's first bout with cancer.
After years of sun exposure, Chesser had developed skin cancer on various parts of her body. Just two years ago, she had a skin graft on the side of her nose to remove cancerous cells.
But Merkel cell carcinoma is a more advanced, more aggressive form that requires more treatment than just skin grafts.
"I was OK with the radiation," said Chesser, her shaved head covered with a bandanna. "But when (the doctors) said chemo, that was the first time I really cried."
Her last treatment — it took about two hours, compared to her first, which took seven — left Chesser unusually drained.
Though she still manages to paddle out to Ala Moana Bowls on her 5-foot-6 fish most mornings, she doesn't feel as strong or rested.
But the iconic surfer, who caught her first wave in 1964 at South Beach, Fla., and never stopped, refuses to give up.
It's an attitude that has helped get through other tragedies in her life.
Her husband died in a car accident two years after they were married.
And their son, Todd, a big-wave charger, drowned while surfing near Waimea Bay 10 years ago. He was just 28.
"That was horrible," said Chesser, whose home near Diamond Head is filled with photos of her son. "I couldn't work for nine months. I would cry at everything. The only medicine that worked was surfing."
Even now, tired and 10 pounds lighter, she still paddles out on her shortboard, determined to catch that healing wave.
"When you picture your name with 'cancer patient,' it was just so hard to accept it," she said. "But once I did, I felt a calmness come over me. If I die, I know I'll be happy. I'll see Todd."
Despite everything she's been through, Chesser remains upbeat and optimistic.
She continues to paint and make jewelry. She's improved her diet with natural supplements. And she still finds humor in her situation, talking about painting alien eyes on the back of her bald head.
Chesser did find one benefit to the chemo.
"Everyone's nicer," she said, referring to the surfers at the lineup who give her more waves. "I'm really enjoying that part."
Reach Catherine E. Toth at ctoth@honoluluadvertiser.com
TO HELP
You can make a donation to:
Da Friends of Jeannie Chesser,
First Hawaiian Bank, 1348 Hunakai St., Honolulu, HI 96816
BENEFIT EVENT
What: A fundraiser for surfer and artist Jeannie Chesser
When: 9:30 p.m. Thursday, Sept. 20
Where: Hard Rock Cafe, 1837 Kapi‘olani Blvd.
Cost: $15 at the door
For more information: Call 955-7383 or e-mail
keepsurfingjeannie@yahoo.com
